Improving designs of garment’s joints made of two-faced material

• Koroleva L.A.

  Vladivostok State University of Economics and Service
  Vladivostok. Russia
  Ph.D., Associate Professor

• Panyushkina O.V.

  Vladivostok State University of Economics and Service
  Vladivostok. Russia
  Head of studing and methodical complex

The relevance of this work lies in the development of an effective method for processing a double collar-stand and the edges of garment’s parts made of double-faced material, which is a fine-wooled coats fabric produced by a complex two-layer weave, which makes it possible to reduce the material consumption and laboriousness of manufacturing a garment and ensure a high marketable appearance.

This article describes procedure for processing the neck of the upper and lower gates with the help of a double collar-stand, while the upper stand is of a height varying from the maximum at the neck of the spoke and sleeve to the minimum at the neckline, made in the form of strips with front and back, also external stand detachable which is rectangle-shaped and its length is determined from the calculation of the increment to the width of the main throat from 5 cm to the shoulder slope, and width is determined by the selected model. The outer stand is connected to the conventional throat either by stitching the finished stand (1st method) or by bending its lower cut and sewing it to the conventional throat (2nd method), and the ends of the stand are processed with a strip, pruned to the cutoff of the front cushion, simultaneously pruning the ends of the stand to the inner cut of the strip.

It should be emphasized that the sections of the flight of collars-stands, the section of the stand of the external collar-stand, the outer and inner slices of a female demi-season coat’s strip, made of double-faced material, which is a fine-woven coat fabric, produced by a complex two-layer weave, is proposed to be cut using special equipment Model “Fortuna KE”, the firm “I. Strobel & Sohne GmbH & Co.”, Germany, with a horizontally rotating knife for two canvases by an amount equal to two allowances for the seam. At the same time, from the inside of the external allowance of the parts, an edge is made of a material with a single-sided adhesive coating, the width of which should not exceed 6 mm. Preliminarily folding the allowances of slices inward, they are hemmed with a stitch of a two-thread secret stitch on a sewing machine of class 313-60 of firm I. Strobel & Sohne GmbH & Co., Germany, or manually by sewing a stitch (with a blind stitching of the oblique stitch).

The technical result of using the proposed method for processing a double collar-rack and the edges of the garment component made from a two-faced material, which is a fine-woven coat fabric, produced by a complex two-layer weave, consists in reducing the labor and time for processing the neck by reducing the number of technological operations and reducing the number of auxiliary parts, also in expansion of the assortment of garments and used fabrics.

The results of this research are patented in the Federal Service for Intellectual Property, Patents and Trademarks. The invention relates to the clothing industry, namely, to methods for processing basic and finishing details of garments, in particular, collars, and can find application in individual tailoring and in industrial production.

Keywords: double collar, one-piece collar-stand, two-faced material.